How to Fix a Leaky Faucet (Step-by-Step for Every Type)

A dripping faucet is more than an annoying sound at 2 a.m. — a faucet that drips once per second wastes over 3,000 gallons a year, according to EPA WaterSense estimates. The fix is almost always a worn internal part costing under $15, but which part depends on which of the four faucet types you have. This guide walks through diagnosing your faucet type and replacing the specific part that's failing.

Table of Contents

1. Identify Your Faucet Type First
2. Before You Start: Shut Off the Water
3. Fixing a Compression Faucet
4. Fixing a Cartridge Faucet
5. Fixing a Ball Faucet
6. Fixing a Ceramic Disc Faucet
7. Materials & Tools Needed
8. Estimated Cost & Time
9. Common Mistakes
10. Safety Tips
11. Maintenance Advice
12. FAQs
13. Conclusion

Identify Your Faucet Type First

Look at the handle(s) and how the faucet operates:

• Compression faucet: Two separate handles (hot/cold), each requiring several turns to shut off. The oldest and simplest design, common in older homes.
• Cartridge faucet: One or two handles that turn about a quarter to half turn to fully shut off, with a smooth, consistent feel.
• Ball faucet: A single handle that moves in every direction (up/down for volume, side to side for temperature) over a rounded ball-shaped cap at the base.
• Ceramic disc faucet: A single handle, usually on a wide cylindrical base, with a noticeably smooth, high-end feel — common on newer, higher-end faucets.

Before You Start: Shut Off the Water

Locate the shutoff valves under the sink (or behind the wall for tub/shower faucets) and turn them clockwise until they stop. Open the faucet fully afterward to relieve pressure and confirm the water is off before removing anything. Place a towel in the sink basin to catch small parts and protect the finish from dropped tools.

Fixing a Compression Faucet

Difficulty: Beginner · Time: 20-30 minutes · Cost: $5-15

Compression faucets leak from worn rubber washers at the base of the stem.

Steps:

1. Remove the decorative cap on the handle, then unscrew the handle to expose the stem.
2. Use an adjustable wrench to unscrew the packing nut and lift out the stem.
3. Remove the screw holding the rubber washer at the bottom of the stem and replace it with an exact match.
4. Inspect the seat (the part the washer presses against) for pitting — if it's rough, a seat-dressing tool can resurface it, or the whole faucet may need replacing if the seat is badly damaged.
5. Reassemble in reverse order and turn the water back on slowly.

Fixing a Cartridge Faucet

Difficulty: Intermediate · Time: 30-45 minutes · Cost: $10-25

Steps:

1. Pop off the decorative cap, remove the handle screw, and lift the handle away.
2. Remove the retaining clip or nut holding the cartridge in place (needle-nose pliers work for retaining clips).
3. Pull the old cartridge straight up and out — note its orientation before removing it.
4. Bring the old cartridge to the hardware store to match it exactly; cartridges are brand- and model-specific and not interchangeable between manufacturers.
5. Insert the new cartridge in the same orientation, replace the retaining clip/nut, and reattach the handle.

Fixing a Ball Faucet

Difficulty: Intermediate · Time: 30-45 minutes · Cost: $10-20

Ball faucets typically fail at the rubber seats and springs beneath the ball, not the ball itself.

Steps:

1. Loosen the set screw on the handle with an Allen wrench and remove the handle.
2. Unscrew the cap and collar to expose the ball assembly, then lift out the ball.
3. Use needle-nose pliers to remove the old rubber seats and springs from inside the faucet body.
4. Install a faucet repair kit's new seats, springs, and cam assembly — these kits are typically sold as a complete set matched to major ball-faucet brands like Delta.
5. Reinsert the ball, aligning the slot with the pin inside the faucet body, then reassemble.

Fixing a Ceramic Disc Faucet

Difficulty: Intermediate · Time: 30-45 minutes · Cost: $15-30

Steps:

1. Remove the handle and lift off the cylindrical cartridge housing.
2. Remove the screws holding the ceramic disc cartridge in place and lift it out.
3. Inspect the rubber seals on the underside of the cartridge — these, not the ceramic discs themselves, are the most common failure point.
4. Replace the cartridge (or just the seals, if sold separately) with an exact match, and clean any mineral buildup from the faucet body before reinstalling.

Materials & Tools Needed

• Adjustable wrench and/or Allen key set
• Needle-nose pliers
• Replacement washers, cartridge, or repair kit matched to your faucet brand
• Plumber's grease (for smooth reassembly of ball and disc faucets)
• Small towel or rag for the sink basin

Estimated Cost & Time

Faucet Type	Time	Cost (DIY, USD)	Typical Pro Cost (USD)
Compression	20-30 min	$5-15	$125-200
Cartridge	30-45 min	$10-25	$150-250
Ball	30-45 min	$10-20	$150-250
Ceramic disc	30-45 min	$15-30	$150-275

Common Mistakes

1. Not identifying the faucet type first and buying the wrong repair kit — the four types use entirely different internal parts.
2. Losing track of part orientation when removing a cartridge or ball, leading to a faucet that leaks or feels "backward" after reassembly.
3. Overtightening the packing nut or retaining clip, which can crack faucet housing, especially on older or ceramic fixtures.
4. Skipping plumber's grease on ball and disc faucets, causing a stiff, hard-to-turn handle even after a successful repair.
5. Ignoring a pitted valve seat on a compression faucet and just replacing the washer repeatedly — a damaged seat will chew through new washers quickly until it's resurfaced or replaced.

Safety Tips

• Always confirm the water supply is fully off before disassembling any faucet — open the tap to release residual pressure first.
• Support small parts (springs, seats, screws) in a cup or magnetic tray so nothing falls down the drain during reassembly.
• If a shutoff valve is corroded or won't turn, don't force it — shut off the home's main water supply instead to avoid snapping the valve.

Maintenance Advice

Faucet washers and cartridges are wear items — expect to replace them every few years even in normal use, more often in hard-water areas where mineral buildup accelerates wear. Wipe faucet bases periodically to prevent mineral scale from building up around the handle base, which can make future repairs harder.

FAQs

Why does my faucet drip only from the spout, not the handle? That's the classic sign of a worn washer, cartridge, or seal inside the faucet body — the specific part depends on your faucet type, covered above.

My faucet leaks at the base of the handle, not the spout — is that different? Yes, that usually points to a worn O-ring around the stem or cartridge housing rather than the washer/seat at the bottom, though the disassembly steps are similar.

Can I use a universal repair kit for any faucet? No — compression, cartridge, ball, and ceramic disc faucets use entirely different mechanisms. Universal kits usually only cover one category (most often compression) and won't fit the others.

Is it ever cheaper to just replace the whole faucet? If the faucet is old enough that replacement parts are discontinued, or if you're already fighting corrosion throughout the fixture, a full faucet replacement (see our guide on updating kitchen fixtures) is often more cost-effective than chasing parts.

Conclusion

A dripping faucet is one of the most solvable plumbing annoyances in a home — identify the faucet type, get the matching part, and most repairs take under 45 minutes. Skip it long enough and you're just paying for wasted water until you do.

Next step: Dealing with other plumbing issues too? See How to Fix a Running Toilet or build broader confidence with our Beginner Plumbing Guide.